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05.13.24

Dernières nouvelles de la Mode et du Luxe (épisode 15)

NellyRodi’s fashion and luxury experts share their picks from the market’s major updates. Episode 14 covers April 2024.

APRIL – Q1 2024: winners and losers

Leading luxury groups (Hermès, Kering, LVMH and the Prada Group) have released their results for the first quarter of 2024.

Exceeding analysts’ expectations, Hermès kicked off the year with an impressive 22% growth in sales and revenue by reaching €3.3 billion, up by 23%. The performance is mainly attributed to strong demand, particularly in Japan with 26% growth and in Europe with a 21% increase which was fueled by tourism, especially in France (+28%).

On the other hand, the Kering Group is facing difficulties, with an 11% decrease in first quarter revenues, dragged down by Gucci, which represents the bulk of its sales. Gucci’s sales dropped by 21%, mainly due to a slowdown in luxury goods consumption in the Asia-Pacific region.

For LVMH, organic sales growth was stable at 3% with a year-on-year revenue decline of 2%. Among its divisions, Wines & Spirits was the most affected with a sales decline of 16%, while Perfumes and Cosmetics was up by 7%.

Finally, the Prada Group announced strong growth with a 16% increase in first quarter revenues, driven especially by a surge in Miu Miu retail sales, up by 89%.

 

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Une publication partagée par Miu Miu (@miumiu)

APRIL 1 – Balmain Hair celebrates 50 years

Among luxury fashion brands, Balmain stands out in the beauty sector thanks to its hair expertise and culture. Balmain Hair is celebrating its 50th anniversary, and to mark the occasion the brand has appointed its very first ambassadors in the United States and launched new products, including three hair perfumes in the Heritage 1974 Collection. Each scent embodies a distinct mood: Ginger 1974 is warm and spicy, Cardamom 1974 is soft and comforting and Vetiver 1974 is fresh and luminous. Eline de Knoop, who has led the brand for 15 years, plans to expand Balmain Hair in this innovative, constantly growing segment.

APRIL 4 – A new innovative collection at Pomellato

Pomellato has introduced the Pom Pom Dot collection, a new range of reversible jewelry that references an iconic 1974 necklace. Each piece in the collection offers two wearing options with a choice between two gemstones. On 4 April the brand hosted a launch event in Paris, inviting celebrities, influencers, and friends of the house to get a first look at the pendant, bracelet and earring designs. The pieces, featuring pink gold and diamonds, offer a versatile choice of colors. With one side in mother of pearl and the other in green malachite or set with diamonds, the range combines traditional craftsmanship with modernity.

 

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Une publication partagée par Pomellato (@pomellato)

APRIL 11 – Paul Smith x The Rug Company

Paul Smith and The Rug Company have teamed up for a vibrant new collection of seven rugs. Smith, who is passionate about interior design, has merged his boundless creativity and “classic with a twist” philosophy with The Rug Company, a brand famous for its handmade rugs. Collaborating for the second time, the two British houses have unveiled a new collection showcasing Paul Smith’s iconic stripes and The Rug Company’s meticulous craftsmanship. Each rug can be customized in terms of size, shape, pattern, pile, and color and also be made as a wall-to-wall carpet or for stairs.

 

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Une publication partagée par Paul Smith (@paulsmithdesign)

APRIL 14 – Sensory dinners at the Hôtel de Crillon

In collaboration with renowned experts, the Hôtel de Crillon invites guests to savor new culinary experiences that engage all five senses. The Hôtel, located on the Place de la Concorde, has announced a series of five multi-sensory dinners in its Michelin-starred l’Écrin restaurant, under the direction of executive head sommelier Xavier Thuizat and chef Boris Campanella. The dinners, held from May to November, will each highlight a different sense: smell, sight, touch, hearing and taste. The first dinner, dedicated to smell, welcomes Guerlain’s acclaimed nose Thierry Wasser, who will share his secrets for creating iconic perfumes. The other dinners will be led by experts such as photographer Kyriakos Kaziras, sommelier François Chartier, geologist Georges Truc and Krug president Manuel Reman, offering a complete immersion into the world of the senses.

APRIL 17 – Acne Studios introduces its first perfume with Frédéric Malle

Swedish house Acne Studios, in collaboration with contemporary perfume editor Frédéric Malle, has released its very first fragrance and created its own olfactory DNA. The new scent, launched on 17 April, is the result of a partnership between Jonny Johansson, founder and creative director of Acne Studios, and Malle, both who are passionate about exploring new aesthetics. Inspired by photography, architecture and design, the joint effort embodies a harmonious fusion between the fashion and perfume worlds.

The fragrance is characterized by aldehydes evoking a sense of purity, followed by floral notes of rose, violet and orange blossom. Next, incense adds a touch of power contrasting with the sweetness of vanilla and sandalwood, enhanced by hints of peach. The project benefited from the talent of Suzy Le Helley, a young perfumer passionate about botany, synthesis and bringing unique and emotional olfactory compositions to life.

 

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Une publication partagée par Acne Studios (@acnestudios)

APRIL 23 – Victoria Beckham x Mango

A new summer collaboration between Victoria Beckham and Mango has taken shape with prices ranging from €50 to €300. The capsule includes pieces such as bodysuits, shirts, pants, trench coats and other wardrobe essentials from the former Spice Girl. The global launch of the collection at Mango attracted serious interest, with a line forming as early as 8 a.m. outside the Oxford Street store in London. In a WWD interview, Beckham explained that she chose to work with Mango to reach a wider audience while still maintaining her aesthetic and DNA. The collaboration strategy with Mango is part of an effort to expand her audience and strengthen her brand. The collaboration is also an important move for Mango, who benefits from Beckham’s status as an internationally renowned designer. Beckham continues to develop her image in the fashion world, following her eponymous brand’s first runway show at Paris Fashion Week in 2022.

 

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Une publication partagée par MANGO (@mango)

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