The latest news in fashion and luxury (episode 25)
NellyRodi’s fashion and luxury experts share their picks from the market’s major updates. Episode 25 covers May and June 2025.
May 19 – Pierpaolo Piccioli Joins Balenciaga
Kering has appointed Pierpaolo Piccioli as the new artistic director of Balenciaga, effective July 10, the day after Demna’s final couture show. Formerly at Valentino, Piccioli—renowned for his mastery of color and volume—will present his first collection in October 2025. He inherits a house now valued at €1.7 billion, built over a decade on radical aesthetics blending couture and streetwear. His arrival signals a refocus: bringing craftsmanship and handwork back to the forefront to reignite desirability, calm controversies, and boost couture—now a key driver for Kering amid a luxury market seeking greater nuance.
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May 21 – Italian AGCM Closes Inquiry into Dior
The Italian Competition Authority has dropped proceedings against Dior after the LVMH house agreed to contribute €2 million over five years to support victims of exploitation, revise its CSR statements, and tighten audits of its subcontractors. While this outcome shows regulation can accelerate best practices, Valentino’s judicial oversight highlights the ongoing risks of underground workshops. As Brussels finalizes its due diligence directive, transparency is becoming a strategic asset linked to craftsmanship.
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June 5 – The Very First Birkin Heads to Sotheby’s
The original Birkin, created in 1984 for Jane Birkin after a chance meeting with Jean-Louis Dumas, will be auctioned by Sotheby’s Paris on July 10 during Haute Couture Week. This black prototype, engraved “J.B.,” still features its fixed strap, built-in nail clipper, and wear from the actress. Having already changed hands twice since 1994, it could break records—testament to the enduring appetite for Hermès rarity. By monetizing the founding object of a legend, the auction world reminds us that a house’s value is also shaped on the museum-like stage of the auction block.
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June 9 – Chanel Launches Nevold, Circularity in Couture
With Nevold (short for “never old”), an independent B2B unit led by Sophie Brocart, Chanel formalizes its commitment to textile circularity. Drawing on L’Atelier des Matières, Filatures du Parc, and Authentic Material, the house recycles its tweed scraps, leathers, and dormant stock into threads and components—already featured in 30% of its bags and 50% of its shoes. Designed as an open platform, Nevold marks a strategic pivot: in the face of dwindling raw materials and tightening regulations, Chanel is making industrial innovation a lever for influence and sector resilience.
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June 11 – Hyde: Bentley Home Brings Grand Touring to the Grass
Bentley Home unveils Hyde, its first luxury picnic set: a woven cotton and bi-color leather basket, matching bottle holders, wool plaid—all offered in Forest Green or Rust. Inside, Murano glass flutes, enameled copper plates, and embroidered linen napkins reflect artisan care worthy of Crewe’s workshops. The palette and detailing echo the revamped Solstice outdoor furniture for 2025. By embracing alfresco luxury, Bentley translates its automotive elegance into a cohesive lifestyle ecosystem, tapping into the booming premium outdoor segment without compromising exclusivity.
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June 13 – VivaTech: Bvlgari Micro-Engraves High Jewelry
At the Paris tech fair, the Roman house unveiled Connected Jewel: an OCR-powered algorithm, developed with Dev4Side, that reads 0.7mm serial numbers engraved in each piece to unlock a digital passport via the Bvlgari Touch app. It details gem provenance, workshop stages, and maintenance services. By embedding authentication in the jewelry itself, Bvlgari streamlines resale, secures traceability, and extends client relations beyond the point of sale—a vision of luxury where artisanal rarity and software intelligence now go hand in hand.
June 14 – “Temple of Love”: Rick Owens’ First Retrospective at Galliera
Starting June 28, the Palais Galliera transforms: 100 silhouettes, videos, and archives dialogue with 30 brutalist sculptures and a recreation of Owens’ Californian bedroom. From his 1990s springboard couture to his Paris shows, the exhibition traces three decades of dark aesthetics and architectural volumes, alongside works by Moreau and Beuys. Beyond spectacle, this immersive format underlines luxury’s strategic pivot: transforming creative legacy into cultural experience to build brand desire and boost tourism—while enhancing the patrimonial value of collections.
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June 16 – Luca de Meo Appointed CEO of Kering
For the first time, the family-owned group names an external CEO: Luca de Meo, credited with revitalizing Fiat and then Renault, will succeed François-Henri Pinault on September 15, with Pinault remaining chairman. Immediate goals: reboot Gucci, strengthen Saint Laurent, and maintain investment capacity despite over €10 billion in debt. More than a personnel change, Kering sends a message: today’s challenges go beyond creativity alone. By recruiting a turnaround specialist, the group bets on more diversified governance, aligning operational discipline, product marketing, and long-term vision to restore growth and trust.
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June 18 – Acne Studios Opens Acne Paper Palais Royal
The Swedish label trades its Palais-Royal arcade store for a permanent gallery modeled on its Acne Paper journal. Opening June 26, the space will debut with 42 exclusive portraits by Paul Kooiker, kicking off a program of exhibitions, talks, and editorial launches. This evolution confirms Acne Studios’ cultural ambition: establishing a dialogue space between fashion, art, and publishing, anchoring the brand in Paris beyond the fashion calendar, and nurturing an experimental image capital that pure retail alone cannot sustain.
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