The latest news in Fashion and Luxury (episode 12)
NellyRodi’s fashion and luxury experts share their picks from the market’s major updates. Episode 12 covers January 2024.
JANUARY 25 - LVMH 2023 in Numbers
LVMH, the world leader in the luxury market, recently released its 2023 financial results. The figures include a 9% increase in revenue to reach the sum of €86.15 billion as well as a net profit of €15.2 billion.
In a global economic context marked by slow growth in China and high inflation in Europe, the Group’s European, Japanese and Asian markets recorded double-digit growth, showcasing its resilience compared to competitors.
Performances like these led LVMH’s CEO to express his intention to “slow down a bit.” During the results presentation, Bernard Arnault explained that a growth rate between 8 and 10% was very satisfactory, but the real key laid in preserving desirability. He emphasized the importance of maintaining a balance between economic growth and positive brand perception by the public, especially for the Group’s iconic brands such as Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton.
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JANUARY 24 - Simone Rocha for Jean-Paul Gaultier
Since Jean-Paul Gaultier’s 2020 decision to step down, the haute couture house has invited prominent designers to reinvent its iconic codes. For the Spring-Summer 2024 Fashion Week, Simone Rocha, an ambassador of romanticism, was invited to take on the challenge. She followed in the footsteps of names like Olivier Rousteing (Balmain), Glenn Martens (Y/Project) and Julien Dossena (Rabanne).
The collaboration between the enfant terrible of Parisian fashion and the Irish designer produced a series of romantic silhouettes combining elegance and melancholy. For some, Rocha’s runway for Jean-Paul Gaultier stands out as one of the most original and innovative moments of Fashion Week. The designer managed to capture the spirit of Gaultier while integrating her own vision, creating a unique interpretation of the grandiose chic characteristic of Jean-Paul Gaultier.
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JANUARY 19 - "The New Look" and "Cristóbal Balenciaga"
The world of haute couture is set to shine on our screens with two captivating new series beginning in early 2024: “Cristóbal Balenciaga,” available on Disney+ since January 19, and “The New Look,” available on AppleTV beginning February 14.
After the global triumph of “House of Gucci” (2021), cinema continues to be fascinated by the history of fashion and the personalities who led the major couture houses in the 20th century. On one side, “The New Look” explores the rivalry between two haute couture icons during the Occupation: Gabrielle Chanel (portrayed by Juliette Binoche) and Christian Dior (portrayed by Ben Mendelsohn).
On the other hand, Disney+ presents the series “Cristóbal Balenciaga,” providing a glimpse into the life of the Spanish master of haute couture, played by Alberto San Juan. The series explores the career of the renowned designer, from his first collection in Paris in 1937 to his death in 1972. It gives viewers an opportunity to see a detailed view of the professional and personal life of the couturier for the first time.
These two series mark a growing trend of fashion houses intensifying their presence in the entertainment industry. By immersing themselves in the world of cinema, they become cultural brands, revealing their history and craftsmanship. The series become an accessible and universal way to capture the attention of a diverse audience and meet their demands for consumption that goes beyond the product.
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JANUARY 24 - Kendrick Lamar at Chanel
Chanel presented a short film titled “The Button” before showing its Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture show. The cinematic work is the result of a collaboration with American rapper Kendrick Lamar and his partner Dave Free. Free, both a writer and director, oversaw the visual creation, while Kendrick Lamar wrote and performed the soundtrack.
The story, centered on craftsmanship and transmission, features actress Margaret Qualley, Chanel’s ambassador. The character embarks on a fantastic journey to Rue Cambon in Paris to meet Coco Chanel and restore the missing button on her jacket.
This strategic collaboration with Lamar aims to position Chanel at the heart of current cultural trends. Lamar and Dave Free are no strangers to partnering with luxury brands, having previously worked with Tiffany & Co.
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JANUARY 23 - Vetements Launches a Children's Collection
Fashion brand Vetements has expanded its offerings by launching a children’s collection. Artistic Director Guram Gvasalia’s miniature versions of the main collection include iconic graphic t-shirts and distinctive designs, especially jeans covered in childlike doodles.
The collection, exhibited in a Parisian showroom alongside the brand’s famous oversized pieces, marks a significant expansion for Vetements, which started in 2014 and continues to evolve under Guram Gvasalia’s direction.
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JANUARY 26 - Dior Opens Its Spa in Dubai
Dior has inaugurated its first spa in the United Arab Emirates, on the 29th floor of The Lana in Business Bay. The spa features floor-to-ceiling windows with breathtaking views of iconic landmarks such as the Burj Khalifa along with five treatment rooms, a suite for two and dedicated beauty rooms.
Treatments include Icoone therapy, Hydrafacial, Dior micro-abrasion and the Dior Skin Light therapeutic LED mask. In collaboration with The Lana, the spa will curate personalized wellbeing experiences and provide a complete retreat for enthusiasts, including the option of ordering meals, drinks and even fitness sessions. An on-site boutique showcases the latest Dior product lines.
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